e; 






l^TP/qTEl) 



I. A.. Mac NAB 



■;3cv l!*\<» 



LIBRARY OF CONGRESS, 

/ /^*^s — 

©Ijaji. GajiJ|riQf/t !f 0. 

Shelf<!r5./ly <^ 



UNITED STATES OF AMERICA. 



0P THE PASSAie. 




LIVINGSTON, ESSEX COUNTY. 

And zc'fio can paint the giist or Q/ca///, 
That lurks upon that flowing stream .' 



)©NG 0P THE PA88Aie 



p. 



\/\/ITH I LLUS T RATIONS . 



ISO, 



a Bescnptive ^betcl) and rriap of \\)Q l\iver 
and its ^)ributaries. 



By JOHN ALLEYNE MACNAB. 



^ 



So green is the grass, so clean is the stream. 

So mild is the mist and so rich is the beam. 

That beauty should never to other lands roam, 

But make on the banks of our river its home." 

Tlionias Davis. 



New York: 
VVALBRIDGE & CO., 

1890. 







c 

Co 



Copyright by J. A. MACNAB, 

1890. 
ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. 



Thb Mackbnzib Presp, 

walbridob « co. 

7 to 37 vandewatbh st , 

NBW YORK. 



^ONG OF THC Passaic. 



^be areat Jebovab wisely planned 
Qll things of eartb, divinely arand ; 
Und, in His way, all nature tends 
©o laws divine, to serve nis ends. 



^)\)e rivers run, and none sball bnow 
Mow long tbeir waters yet may flow 
We read tbe record of tbe past, 
Wbile time witbbolds tbe future cast. 




NEW PROVIDENCE, UNION COUNTY. 

The rivers run, and none shall know 
How long their waters yet may flow. 



e buds and leaves ci^ange sl^ade and form ; 
Winds list, and lo I comes calm or storm. 
Dirds wlna tl^eir fllabt from f tortb to ipoutl} ; 
(^\)e spn'na floods come, and <Dummer s drouat^t ; 
CJnd ev ry tr^in^, with toucp of time, 
Will aatber mould and frosts of rime. 

IV. 

Y et, m tl^eir flowina to toe sea, 

^\)e rivers fill tpeir destiny ; 

Und to tl^e measure of i\)e\r lays, 

l\un on and on, tl^rouap endless days; 

(Js old as. Qills, and yet as new 

Cls verdured fields, tt^ey wander tr^rouap. 




STANLEY, MORRIS COUNTY. 

As old as hills, and yet as new 

As verdurcd fields, they ivander through. 



V. 

(JnJ in ibe rise, i\)e liabt ancJ alow 
Uf grand old rivers, In tbelr flow 
Prom distant \)'\\\s, tbrou^b dales and lea, 
Q^he fair l^assaic seebs tbe sea — 
(Jn Indian name, wbicb sianifles 
Q^hoi, broad and fair and fruilful, lies, 
Detween tbe sea and mountain source, 
Gybe valley wbere its waters course. 

VI. 

Und wbo can paint tbe alist or aleam 
G|)bat lurbs upon tbat flowina stream ; 
Ur measure beauty of its glades; 
k)r weipb tbe tints of var ing sbades ; 
Ur follow furrowed ways, deep-frau^bt 
Witb wondrous lines, by water wroucjbt '? 

1 See Explanatory Nctes. 




ROSELAND, ESSEX COUNTY. 

From distant hills, tln-oiii^lt dales and lea, 
The fair Passaie seeks the sea. 



VII. 

Ur trace tbe forms tl^at come and ac 
Wbere tow nna trees sway to and fro 
(Jnd busby banl?s tbrow on its tides, 
Q|)be flittinas of tbeir frinoina sides ? 



VIII. 

kjr arasp, from closing sbades of niabt, 

^>\)e ling nna rays of fading ligbt ; 

Ur steal, wbere trails of moonbeams prance, 

cln midnigbt wbirl of wat ry dance; 

Up bold tbe ligbt, wben stars are dimmed, 

(Jnd mist witb rays of liabt are rimmed ; 

Ur l^eep, or fix tbe li^b'I's tbat dart, 

Und minplina seem, yet keep apart? 




HORSENECK, MORRIS COUNTY. 

And bushy banks t/irozu on its tides. 
The Jiittings of their fringing sides. 



IX. 

Unci Me, who bade tpe rivers flow, 

(crave sparl^le to r assaic s alow ; 

I T bade it to run tbrouap dale and alen, 

(^prougp mead and wood, and leafy fen, 

until its slow and lazy tide 

U erflows its banl^s, on eitber side, 

Und vast expanse of "Wasle [lands fi 

Witb ooze of water, at its will, 

Und marshes, sodden, low and dan!?, 

erarown witb grasses, wild and ran!?. 




GREAT PIECE MEADOWS, MORRIS COUNTY. 

And vast expanse of " Waste Lands"' fill 
With ooze of water, at its wilt. 



X. 

(^)[)en onward flows, witb aood intent 
\^o wider channels in descent ; 
Willie otQer tributes seeb, and pour 
(^l^eir wealtb of flow unto its store ; 
Und greater ranae of watershed 
(jjfives broader surface to its spread. 




TWO BRIDGES, PASSAIC COUNTY. 

While other tributes seek, and pour 
Their wealth of flow unto its store. 



XI. 

Una, from its wealth of broad ^reen f.elds, 
U fuller measure drainage yields ; 
(Jn^l, by 1be lave of flowing stream, 
(^rie soils witl} greater bounties teem ; 
^\)e valleys are more fair witb bloom; 
C^be verdure ricber witb perfume , 
kjna denser is the growtb ibat weaves, 
an closer web, tbe fnrge of leaves. 




FAIRFIELD, ESSEX COUNTY. 

And denser is the grozut/i that zueaves. 
In closer zueb, the fringe of leaves. 



XII. 

ats placid iicles now cJisenaaae, 
Wben tranquil flow ciives way to raae ; 
(JnJ loosened water disent brails, 
Und pours its mass down waterfalls. 



■. '>'?.'t5»'sr§?a«?«s-5r;-?ry^-?.' = V ". 




I.— LITTLE FALLS, PASSAIC COUNTV. 

Its placid tides now disengage, 

When tranquil flow gives way to rage. 



XIII. 

UnJ up above the wl}irl and toss 
Uf maaclenecl walen, swings across 
U timbered bridge, witb SQinaled roo| 
(Jnd covered sides, tl^rown nigb, aloof, 
y er ragged, deep, rocb-bound defile ; 
ffeor pier nor butments serve to guile 
(^\)Q rusbing tides, in bui'ried flow, 
(^o basins, cleft in rocbs bel 



low. 



XIV. 

Wbile bemlocl? trees, tbat drape tbe edpe 
Of time-sered rocbs, o erbana tbe ledge 
Ond drop tbeir cones ; so li^l;!" and small, 
T^\}o\ one would scarcely note 1beir fall, 
Were not a legend still in vogue, 
C^bat eacb cone bolds a fairy ropue. 




II.— LITTLE FALLS, PASSAIC COUNTY. 

The rushing tides, in hurried Jioiv, 
To basins, eleft in rocks below. 



XV. 

Unci overpeau, in arcp of stone, 
(^[?ere flows a tide, so slow and prone 
(^o will of men, wpose genius planned 
C^ waterway ; tpat runs torou^r; land, 
Wpere ne en before pad water flowed, 
Kjr boots by rjorse or mules been towed. 



XVI. 

(dnd circles of tbe arcpway s nm 
oast sbad wy forms, libe spectres cjnm ; 
Und frowning rocl;;s, o ergrown witb moss, 
^l}ine in tbe moonbeams silv ry gloss; 
Wbile circling eddies woo and press 
^\)e waters into tranquilness. 




III.— LITTLE FALLS, PASSAIC COUNTY. 

And circles, of the arch way's rim, 
Cast shad' zvy forms, like spectres grim. 



XVil, 

Unci oal?en trees, and fir-tiiipecJ pine, 
Unci green and rugged cedars, line 
(^\)e raa^ed cliff ; wpere winds, astir, 
Ure rustling oab-leaves gainst 1l;e fir; 
Und beetlina cra^s, aalint and steep, 
rlan^ o er tpe waters, purling, deep ; 
Und, from tpe archways crumbling walls, 
(^i\)e drippina of tl^e leabage falls ; 
Und, in its slumbers, mid trje sbeen 
Uf flowinc^ rims and wooded screen, 
(^9ere lies an asle, WQere quart^ and scbist 
Mold alitterinn ^ems of amethyst ; 
Und, over all, 'Wrjere lurbs a sound — 
(^be distant roar wbere waters bound. 




IV.— LITTLE FALLS, PASSAIC COUNTY. 

There lies an isle; where quartz a)id schist 
Hold glittering gems of amethyst. 



XVIll 

Still, on and on, its tides descend, 
an rippling flow and winding trend; 
Qnd, in its sweep, it sparbles bngl^t- 
(J silver ribbon batbed in ligl^t. 




RYLE PARK, PASSAIC COUNTY. 

And, in its siveep, if sparkles bright — 
A silver ribbon bathed in lig-ht. 



XIX. 

Oj^ben, under cJizzy l^eiar/ls of bridge, 
Und circlina round Ipe wooded ridge, 
Witb rolling surface, broaden spread, 
at passes cities of '\\)e dead. 









LAUREL GROVE, PASSAIC COUNTY. 

Then, tinder dizzy heights of bridge, 
And circling 'round the wooded ridge. 



XX. 

(^ben, measures of its boarded store 
lyecede, and plasr) on eii^er sbore ; 
Und stubborn walls but bold it bacr?, 
(^bcit raceways may recall, to raci?, 
nrom its walled-up, impeded course, 
industrial sbare of motive force ; 
(Jnd lead, in an^lin^ conduits down, 
cJ power tbat serves tbe busy town. 




I— PATERSON, PASSAIC COUNTY. 

Afid stubborn walls but Jtold it back, 
That raceways may recall, to rack— 



XXI. 

(^be nven waters rusb distract, 
Unci boldly leap ll^e cataract; 
Uwing, by tpeir maiestic minpt 
(Jnd tbnilling nrandeur of tpeir fligbt, 
(^r)ey plunge speer down, in deep abysm, 
Wrlb awful roar and rumbling ry1r)m ; 
Und breab, on rocbs that intervene, 
onto a mass of whitened speen. 

XXII. 

Und, in tpe wr^irl wbere eddies flow, 
(^be foam-flabes ride, wbite as tbe snow ; 
(Jnd clouds of spray and vap ry mist 
l\ise up and fall, sun-bued and bissed 
Dy oris liabt, wbose magic ray 
(^b^ows arcbes o er tbe misted way ; 
(Jnd rainbow colors interlocl^ 
9r\ circles round tbe creviced rock 




Ii.— PASSAIC FALLS, PAl'ERSON. 

The riven waters rush distract. 
And boldly leap the cataract. 



XXIII. 

Unci rigid, ^ray, deep-walled and prand, 
C^pe anm old rocks, lil?e sentries, stand ; 
Wr^ile deaf ning tbunden of its bound 
l\everberates, and prisoned sound 
l\olls bad? and forti;), till sound-wave fills, 
Und echoes linger on i\)e \)\\\s. 

XXIV. 

Gpben, tl^rou^l} ]\)e rocbs, in broken rifts, 
(^\)e waters splurge, in swaying drifts ; 
While on a crest, rocl?-rimrned and billed, 
U brown shaft stands ; its tablets filled 
Wi1h names of hef'oes, battle-slain; 
While waters murmur sad refrain 
(Jnd ripple on, and circuit-lines 

e asland, clothed with stately pines. 




Ill —VALLEY OF THE ROCKS, PATERSON. 

Then through the rocks, in broken rifts. 
The waters splurge, in swaying drifts. 



XXV. 

Gj)ben, to tbe rytbm of i1s own sona 
Una measured flow, it winds alonn ; 
While river, valley, mouniain, plain, 
Gj)oqet9er form one vast domain, 
Und tree-girt scores reflect Ipeir trace, 
i)n sbad wv lines, in its embrace; 
Und waters broaden, full and free, 
Und gleam and glow in Qabe Uundee ; 
Wbile brightest beams of early dawn, 
4\iss graves and spires of oedar Qawn. 




DUNDEE, BERGEN COUNTY. 

A?id zvaters broaden, full and free. 
And gleam and glow in Lake Dioidee. 



XXVI. 

(^pen waters course tbrougb pate and race 
clnd roll o er wall, witb sbeeted face ; 
Ond, passing fields of fruit and tillaae, 
(i^reet namesabe city, bamlet, village ; 
olnd, winding on, mid ebb and flow 
of ocean tides tbat come and ao, 
(^be famous river yields its sway 
unto tbe lona deep-cbanneled bay; 
olnd, feelina toucb of new emotion, 
at aives its tides to tbose of ocean. 




CLIFTON, PASSAIC COUNTY. 

Then icafcrs course, fJirouq/i gate and race. 
And roll o'er zvall, with sheeted face. 



XXVII. 

(Jb, wQo will paint \\)e scenes i\)a\ lie, 

Wbere walens of tbat river ply'? 

UnJ wl^ose toe pen to paint so clear 

(J picture, ti^at will be as clear 

(Js tides, tpat run and aleam, and alow 

Witb silv ry sbeen of constant flow. 



XXVIII. 

(sind wbo will speal? for sbady bowers"? 
Cind wbo will sina of fragrant flowers, 
(^bci^ iii^s i^s banbs, wbile lilies tbrow 
C^bsir blooms from wat ry depths below ? 
Und wbo will sin^ of broobs or nils, 
C:|)bat run to rivers from tbe bills ? 
Und wbat of plumacied birds, ibat wina 
(^beir flipb^ from sbore to sbore, and bring 
U weallb of son^, sun^ witbout words ; 
(J song tbat only comes from birds ? 




PASSAIC, PASSAIC COUNTY. 

Ah ; who will paint the scenes, that lie 
Where waters of that River, ply. 



XXIX. 

Unci what of cDummer, W1I9 areen vales 
U[ so riC9 yield, or fertile dales 
\uy waters laved, and clad in dress, 
(^\)o\ riature aives wdp lavisbness ? 
Und wpat o| Uuiumn, wito leaves turned 
Prom areen to russet, sered, and burned 
^)o brown and crimson, gray and ^old, 
upon its surface onward rolled "? 

XXX. 

Und wr)at of Winter, will; its 9I0SS, 
Deep frinamg banbs W1I9 icy floss ; 
Ur fields, so lately prown and trite, 
Ull clad in raiment, snowy wbife; 
Wben I 'ature sleeps so sound, and brings 
l\enewed life witp its wal^enings"? 
Und what of all inat treasured lore — 
i^\)G leaendary tales of yore "? 




DELAWANNA, PASSAIC COUNI'V. 

To broivii and crimson, gray and gold, 
Upon ifs surface omvard rolled. 



XXXI. 

(Jncl what of busy water-woeels ; 

i^\)e c'lani? of si^afts, or l^um of reels V 

UnJ wl^at of conquered tongues of fire, 

YlelJinc^ to water its burning pyre"? 

Qncl what of cooling ciraugbts Ibat spnnp 

Prom mountain-lobes, refresbening 

(Jlibe to man and beast, and bird, 

Wbo drinb its waters undisturbed "? 



XXXII. 

Bould 9 but sing of all its ways! 
(^>\)o\ grand old river I all its lays, 
Qnd all loved scenes; but S must yield 
K^o otber pens tbe fruiiful field. 






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INDEX TO LAKES AND PONDS SHOWN ON MAP. 

Round Pdiul, Greenwood Lake Mticojiin Pond and Green Pond, bcin<^ named 
on (he map, ha\"e no numbers attaclied. 



RAMAPO WATERSHED. 



Ni). 



II. 
12. 

13- 

14. 



[1 XT 

Round Pond. . . . 
Mt. P.ashaLaUe. .. 
Slaui;liter Pond. . 
Cranberry Pond . 

Echo Lake 

Island pond 

Green Pond 

Car Pond 

Tuxedo Lake 

Little Negro i'ond. 



Negro Pond, or Lake Po Talcc 

Rotten Pond 

Crooked Pond 

Franklin Lake 

Pom]iton Lake artitic a. 



County. 




Elevation 


.Orange, 


N. Y. 


662 feet 
851 ■' 
I 054 " 

1 ,0 1 3 " 
709 '• 
963 •' 
991 ' 
706 ' 
557 " 
775 " 


Rockland 


N. Y. i 




and 


} 


610 " 


Passaic. 


N. J.) 


537 " 


llcrgen, 


<' 


410 " 
417 •' 


Passaic, 


" 


210 " 



No. on 
Ma]) 



WANAQUE WATERSHED 

Name. 



Greenwood Lalce 



15. Stirling Lake. , 

16. Little Cedar Pond 

17. SlR'])i)ard's Pond 



County. 




Elevation 


( Orange, 


N. Y. ) 




} and 


[ 


621 feet. 


1 Passaic, 


N. J. \ 




Orange, 


N. Y. 


749 ■' 
1,029 ■■ 



Rockland, N.Y. ) 

and 
Passaic, N. J. I 



18. Tice's Pond. . . 

19. Kearfort Pond 

20. Terrace Pond. 

21. iMud Pond. . , . 



637 " 

490 " 

1,23s " 

1^393 " 

340 " 



ANO IT'S TRIBUTARIES. 

-1 2 3 -4 S^Xcle* 
I 1 I ' J 



^Source of^AeMamc 



tSoui^ce. o f ^keT^'taoice. 



C«li 






fOource o/ 
Source, o£ 




Source, o-f ^Saddle Hiirer 



V. 



.♦ 



^A 



<>y %37. 



J^Tou.<h af iheJ^scLic, 






\C.C. \1rfr2.tj.i.U M^l 



PEQUANNOCK WATERSHED 



No. on 
Map. 

22. 

23- 
24. 

25- 
26. 



Name. County. 

Dunker Pond Passaic, 

Buckabear Pond " 

Hank's Pond " 

Cedar Pond «• 

Macopin Pond " 

Stickle Pond Morris, 





Elevation 


^..I. 


1,013 ft^et. 




995 •' 


' ' 


1.03^, '• 


" 


I, no " 


• ( 


893 • 


" 


786 ' 



ROCKAWAY WATERSHED. 



No. on 
Map. 



Name. County. Elevation. 

Mooseback Pond Morris, N. J. 815 feet. 

Petersburgh I'ond *' " 775 " 

Green Pond " " 1,048 " 

Denmark Pond " " 818 " 

Middleforge Pond " " 708 " 

Durham Pond " " 880 ' ' 

Split Rock Pond " " 815 " 

Dixon's Pond " " 560 " 

Duck Pond " " 521 " 

ShonfTum Pond " '* 608 '* 



WHIPPANY WATERSHED. 



No. on 
Map. 



Name. County. Elevation. 

6. Speedwell Lake Morris, N. J. 312 feet. 



REFERENCE TABLE. 



This table shows the location on the river where the views were taken. 



^°- °" Name. Location. 

Map. 

37. New Providence Union Co. 

38. Stanley Morris 

39. Livingston (frontispiece) Essex 

40. Roseland " 

41 . Horseneck Morris 

42. Great Piece Meadows ' • 

43. Two Bridges Passaic 

44. Fairfield Essex 

45. Ryle Park Passaic 

46. Laurel Grove. " 

47. Dundee Lake Bergen 

48. Clifton Passaic 

49. Passaic " 

50. Dela wanna " 

Little Falls and Passaic Falls are named on the map; and the four illustra- 
tions at the former place, as also the four illustrations at the latter place, have 
no numbers attached. 

The vignette title of this book shows two of the three rocks at Two Bridges, 
which are referred to in the descriptive sketch of the river. 

It will be noticed that some of the numbers on the map, as well as a small 
star near the number, are placed some distance from the river. This indicates 
that the town, or village proper, is at some distance from the river; the limits 
ot the town or village, however, extend to the banks of the river. 



NOTES, EXPLANATORY OF THE POEM. 



I. — Passaic is an Indian word, and in its generally accepted significance means 
a Valley; and it is so defined by "Webster." 

2. — What is here meant by the term, " Waste Lands," is all of that tract of low 
meadow shown and designated on maps of New Jersey as the "Great Piece 
Meadows," Locally it is generally called the " 15ig Piece ;'' but, properly 
speaking, the Big Piece lies on the Essex County side of the river, and 
that portion lying on the Morris County side is called, locally, the 
"Low Lands." The Great Piece Meadows cover an area of territory 
five miles stjuare in extent. A goodly portion of it is quite heavily tim- 
bered; and, as the ele\'ation of the river at Two Bridges — the commence- 
ment of the meadows— is only one foot greater than at the top of 
Beattie's dam, three miles below, it will be seen that the floods that come 
from its great area of drainage readily overflow these low lands. This 
applies with equal force to the low lands further up the river, lying 
between the Great Piece Meadows and Chatham. The territory embraced 
by the latter, which is generally crdled the Hanover Meadows, is fully 
as large as that of those first named. The excavations now in progress 
for draiin'ng these meadows must be carried to com])letion before an 
intelligent judgment can be pronoimced as to the success of the work. 

3. — The Pomjjton River unites with the Passaic at Two Bridges, as shown in 
illustration on the oi)posite page. The bridge to the left crosses the 
Passaic River, while the one to the right crosses the Pompton River. 

4. — This legend, it is said, applies only to the cones of the hemlock tree. 

These cones, it will be remembered, are no larger than an ordinary sew- 
ing thimble. 

5. —The Morris Canal crosses the river at Little Falls in a stone aipieduct. at 

an elevation of fifty feet above the ri\'er. Considering that it was built 
about half-a-century ago, it is a grand work, not only in its mechanical 
excellence and architectural beauty, but from the engineering skill dis- 
played in the construction. The freezing, every winter, of its water-soaked 
stones, has gi\x'n it a se\'ere trial ; and there are many who predict that 
the time is not far distant when the whole structure will gi\"e way. Tiie 
outer stones of its upper or western rim have rdrcady fallen to the ri\er 
below; and were it not for the strengthening frame, or wooden conduit 
added to it a few years ago, the probabilities are that the predictioM 
would ha\'e been verified ere this. It is constructed of sandstone, which 
was quarried in the near vicinity. This ([uarry gained some distinction 
from the fact that it furiu'shed the stone for Trinity Church on Broad 
way, New \'ork. Tiie ledge on which this ijuarry is located has since 
been opened on the other side of the river. 



NOTES. 

6. — Numerous and beautiful specimens of amethyst have been found in the 
quartz and mica-schist, in the Basin or Valley of the Rocks, at Little Falls. 
(See Catalogue of Minerals, page 4, Part i, Vol. II; Final Reports of 
State Geologist; 1889.) 

7. — Referring to Laurel Grove and Holy Sepulchre Cemeteries. The former 
is comparatively a new cemetery, beautifully located on the side of a 
sloping hill. The latter, and older, is a Catholic Cemetery, and is situated 
about one-half mile nearer to the city of Paterson than is Laurel Grove. 

8. — For reasons that will be apparent, the writer has used the word "wall " in 
the poem, rdher than the word '-dam." What is meant by the word 
"wall 'is the dam of the' Society for Establishing Useful Manufactures." 
This Society was incorporated in 1792 The dam diverts the water of the 
river into raceways, and thus furnishes motive power to many factories. 
However, this is only a small portion of the power now used; as 
matiy cjf the factories having water power, also have, in addition, steam 
power ; and the city has grown to such an extent, that a great number 
of the factories and many of them the largest in the city — are far 
removed from the river or die raceways 

9. — It is of frequent occurrence for rainbows to span the Chasm at Passaic 
Falls; the shifting rays of the sun throw the curve of the rainbows 
sometimes longitudinal with the Chasm, and sometimes directly across 
it. And while it is not frequent, yet it is not rare, to see a rainbow high 
up in the air reflected from one lower down. 

10. — This refers to the Passaic County Soldiers' and Sailors' Monument, erected 
in 1870. It is of brown stone, and is surmounted by a white marble 
statue of a Union soldier. The white tablets, on its four sides, contain 
the names of two hundred and forty-eight Soldiers and Sailors, who 
sacrificed their lives for their and our country in the late Civil War. 

II. — This is the island adjoining the West Street Bridge, at Paterson, long 
known as Temperance Island, but of late years known as Little Coney 
Island 

12, — Dundee Lake is formed by damming the river. The present dam was 
erected about the year i860, to furnish water power for some contem- 
plated mills at the city of Passaic; many mills have since been erected. 
Previous to the erection of the present dam a smaller one existed, 
and the adjoining portion of Bergen County was then known as 
"Slaughter Dam." The banks of the river as they existed before the 
present dam was built, are readily distinguished by the occasional 
stumps of trees that protrude above the water. 

13.— Cedar Lawn Cemetery is on the Passaic County side of the river, at Lake 
Dundee. This cemetery overlooks a great ]3f)rtion of Bergen County, 
and comprises several hundreds of acres. It is beautifully situated and 
is subject to unremitting care. 



NOTES. 

14 — Dundee Dam, wliich has already been spoken of in reference to Dundee 
Lake, is here referred to. 

15. The term "Namesake City, " refers to the city of Passaic, and the words 
"Hamlet" and "Village " in the poem, immediately following "Name- 
sake City," are intended to mean Delawanna and Belleville. 

In the selection of the illustrations, the author has tried to choose such as will 
convey a general idea of the river, throughout its length; and, at the same 
time, give those views that are accessible to any one who may desire to ride, 
or walk, along the roadways that follow the course of the river; rather than 
give illustrations — even though they might surpass some of those selected — 
that are inaccessible or can be reached only by a row-boat. 



NOTE CONCERNING NAMES. 



For the purpose of designating one of the illustrations in this book — in the 
absence of any fixed name -the writer has taken the liberty of calling that 
portion of the river lying between Lincoln Bridge and the bridge of the I). L. 
& W. R. R. Co., Laurel Grove. And although he finds on maps of the water- 
shed of the Ramapo River, in Orange County, New York a pond that is kntjwn 
as "Nigger" Pond, yet he has taken the liberty of calling this sheet of water, 
"Little Negro Pond" — partly to distinguish it from a larger pond that lies 
in an adjacent county, that bears a similar name, but chiefiy because of the 
better orthography of the name. 

In regard to the names of lakes and ponds adopted by the writer. He has 
chosen those that have been the most generally accei)tetl, although, in some 
instances, they may differ from those given on maps — e\-en of recent issue — 
of the Geological Survey. It is to be regretted that some lakes and [londs have 
two or three names. " Lake Po-Take " and " Negro Pond " refer to the same 
body of water; the former has the right of priority, although circumstance has 
more definitely fixed the latter. 

It will also be noticed, that some of the elevations of lakes or ponds as herein 
noted, differ in a trilling measure from those given on maps of the Geological 
Survey. This is due to the fact that the figures quoted here are from more 
recent surveys, and indicate a ;/(7rw(7/ elevation. Shepjiard's Pond, duringa dry 
season, lies wholly in Passaic County, N. J., while in a wet season it I'xpands into 
Rockland County. N. V. The map shows it in its expanded condititjn, while the 
figures given indicate its normal elevation. 



DESCRIPTIVE SKETCH OF THE PSSSSIC RIVER. 



The following sketch of the river has been prepared partly from personal 
knowledge, partly from reports of the State Geologist, partly from data kindly 
furnished by the Civil Engineer and Topographer who made the surveys and 
maps of the Passaic river and valley— and from other sources. And for the 
reason that the writer found many who had but little knowledge of the river- 
its source, its tributaries, its length or elevations— he has endeavored to make 
this sketch not only accurate, but full. 

The Passaic River rises in the Great Swamp near Mendham, 
Morris County, New Jersey, and retains its name down to 
Newark Bay. The word Passaic is of Indian origin, and signi- 
fies a valley. The total length of the river — from source to 
niouth — is eighty-one and a quarter miles. The area of drain- 
age at Millington, the outlet of the Great Swamp, is 56.6 square 
miles; at Chatham Bridge, 253^ miles below its source, it is 
99.8 square miles; at Little Falls, 52'/^ miles below its source, 
it is 774.2 square miles; at Passaic Falls, at Paterson, 57 
miles below its source, it is 796.9 square miles; and at its 
mouth, at Newark, it is 949.1 square miles. Its elevation above 
tide water at foot of Dundee Dam, is 6 feet; at top of Dam, 27 
feet; foot of Passaic Falls, 40 feet; top of Passaic Falls, no 
feet; foot of Little Falls, 118 feet; top of Beattie's Dam, 158 
feet; mouth of Pompton River, at Two Bridges, 159 feet; mouth 
of Rockaway River, 163 feet; Chatham Bridge, 177 feet; outlet 
of Great Swamp, at Millington, 221 feet; while its source, at 
Mendham, is 600 feet above tide. Tide water flows to the city 
of Passaic, which is 13 miles above its mouth, and the river 
is navigable to that city. 



DESCRIPTI J '£ SKETCH. 

The area of drainai^c above Little l^\alls, is made up from 
that of its branches, the Ramapo, Wanaque, Pequannock, 
Rockaway and Whippany Rivers, and the Upper Passaic. Be- 
low Little P'alls, it receives the drainage of Peckman's l^rook, 
and the Oldham Creek, and at the city of Passaic, that of 
Saddle River. Many other streams, the larger of which are 
named on the map, add their quota to the river's total. 

The Ramajjo Rixer rises in Orange and Rockland Counties, 
New York. The Wanaque River rises in Orange Count\% in the 
same State. The Pequannock River rises in Morris, Passaic, 
and Sussex Counties, N. J. The Rockaway River has its whole 
course in Morris County. The Whippany River rises near 
Morristown, in the same county. The Ramapo, Wanaque and 
Pequannock Rivers unite at Pompton, and form Pompton River, 
which runs into the Passaic at Two Bridges. The Ramapo 
River derives its waters from Round Pond, Mount Basha Lake, 
Slaughter Pond, Cranberry Pond, P^cho Lake, Island Pond. 
Green Pond, Car Pond, Tuxedo Lake and Little Negro Pond. 
All of the foregoing lakes or ponds lie in Orange County, New 
York. It also receives the waters of Negro Pond, or Lake Po 
Take, which lies partly in Rockland County, N. Y., and partly 
in Passaic County, N. J.; Rotten Pond, in Passaic County; 
Crooked Pond and Franklin Lake, in Bergen County, and 
Pompton Lake (artificial), in Passaic County. 

The Wanaque River derives its waters from Greenwood Lake, 
which lies partly in Orange County, N. J., and partly in Passaic 
County, N. J.; Stirling Lake and Little Cedar Pond, in Orange 
County, N. Y.; Sheppard's Pond, which lies partly in Rockland 
County, N. Y., and partly in Passaic County, N. J.; Tice's Pond, 
Bearfort Pond, Terrace Pond and Mud Pond, in Passaic County. 

The Pequannock River receives its flow from Dunker Pond, 
Buckabear Pond, Hank's Pond, Cedar Pond and Macoj^in Pond 
in Passaic Count}', and Stickle Pond in Morris Count}'. The 
newer name of Macopin Pond is PLcho Lake, but the older 
name of Macopin still clings to it, and while it is admitted 
that the conformation of the valleys that surround this sheet 



DESCRIPTIVE SKETCH. 

of water are such that an "Echo range" is produced, still 
it should be borne in mind that echo ranges are of such fre- 
quent occurrence that no particular importance should be 
attached to it. The Indian name of Macopin (pronounced 
Mawcopin), was given, undoubtedly, to this beautiful sheet 
of water, not because of its echo range, but because of that far 
more phenomenal and characteristic feature, its Whisper Alley 
— or the ease with which one can converse across its waters, 
not only from side to side, but from end to end. It is a pity 
— nay, it was a crime upon nomenclature to change its name 
to the inferior one of Echo Lake. True, the Indians have long 
since passed away, but — 

" Their names are on your waters, 
And ye cannot wash them out." 

The Rockaway River draws its supply from Mooseback Pond, 
Petersburg Pond, Green Pond, Denmark Pond, Middleforge 
Pond, Durham Pond, Split Rock Pond, Dixon's Pond, Duck 
Pond and Shongum Pond, all in Morris County. 

There are no natural lakes or ponds on the Whippany River, 
and Speedwell Lake on the Whippany River is shown on the 
map because it is a well known lake, but it is artificial. As 
regards the Passaic or Saddle Rivers, they have no natural lakes 
or ponds of sufficient size to warrant mention, and it seems 
superfluous almost to add that the beautiful body of water so 
well known as "Lake Dundee" is artificial, and simply im- 
pounds the water to furnish power to the factories at and near 
Passaic. By reference to the map it will be seen that a great 
number of creeks and brooks empt)^ into each of the foregoing 
rivers. 

With but few exceptions all of the lakes or ponds heretofore 
mentioned, are natural lakes. Greenwood Lake is thirteen feet 
above its natural level, having been raised to the latter height 
for uses of the Morris Canal. Before it was raised to its 
present height, however, and in its natural or primitive state, 
it was called " Long Pond." The rule seems to have been, to 
call all bodies of water, large or small, a " pond." In this 



DESCRIPTIVE SKETCH. 

connection, it may be proper to state at this time tliat Lake 
Marcia (a modern name), lying in the depression of the crest 
of the mountain at High Point, Sussex County, at an elevation 
of 1570 feet above tide, is tlie highest body of water in New 
Jersey. It is not on the Passaic watershed, however, and is 
noted here simply as an interesting fact. The highest elevation 
of the Passaic watershed is at the source of the Pequannock 
River, which is 1496 feet above tide. P^or location of lakes or 
ponds, with their elevation above tide water, see figures on 
map corresponding to figures in index. 

Peckman's Brook rises near Verona, in Essex County, and 
empties into the Passaic, midway between Little Falls and 
Paterson; Oldham Creek rises in Bergen County, N. J., and 
empties into the Passaic, a short distance above the " P'alls " 
at Paterson. Saddle River rises in Rockland County, N. Y., 
and traverses a great portion of Bergen County, N. J. It is fed 
by numerous small streams, the largest of which is Hohokus 
Creek, which unites with it at Paramus. Saddle River, as 
already mentioned, empties into the Passaic, on the Bergen 
County side of the river, at the town of Garfield, opposite the 
city of Passaic. Second and Third Rivers, two small yet im- 
portant streams, also empty into the Passaic at and in the 
vicinity of Belleville. That portion of the Passaic which is 
above the inflow of the rivers already enumerated, is generally 
known as the Upper Passaic. This portion of the river, while 
smaller, and notwithstanding that it flows in great part through 
low and marshy meadow-land, is yet rich in the beauty of its 
scenery. Many of its windings through the walley are grand 
and picturesque. The meadows lying between Chatham and 
the mouth of the Rockaway River, as well as the Great Piece 
Meadows lying between the village of Pine Brook and the mouth 
of the Pompton River, at Two Bridges, are often entirely sub- 
merged. The sluggish flow of the water, clings tenaciously to 
the lowlands; and, whetlier it be tenable or not, it is claimed by 
some of the residents of the above named locality, that the water 
of the Pompton River, at its inflcnv into tlic Passaic at Two 



DESCRIPTIVE SKETCH. 

Bridges, prevents the free flow of the Passaic; and in times of 
freshets, the water of the Pompton River forces that of the 
Passaic up stream, and thus causes the inundation of the Great 
Meadows. Expert engineers, however, have adjudged the 
inundation to be caused by a reef of earth and boulders at 
Two Bridges, and other points lower down the stream, at 
which points operations are now in progress for their removal, 
under the direction of State Commissioners. And it seems to 
the writer that this sketch would be incomplete, were it not 
stated that the late Prof. George H . Cook— so widely known 
and beloved in New Jersey, where he filled the office of State 
Geologist for more than a quarter century— was born on the 
banks of the Passaic, at Hanover. He labored long and 
earnestly to obtain relief for his native valley from the disas- 
trous floods which the river he loved so well visited upon it in 
its capricious moods. He lived just long enough to see his 
efforts bear fruit; and the work of lowering the reef at Little 
Falls was only fairly begun, when he was called to cross that 
other river, the tides of which are so far beyond the control of 
mortal man. 

Three huge rocks, or boulders, lie in the river at Two 
Bridges, and during the normal flow of the river they are 
exposed, and the view from the bridge, over the Passaic at 
this point, is at all times fascinating. The writer was told a 
legend in his boyhood days, wherein these same rocks were 
saTd to have been hurled by some giants from the high peak 
of the mountain at North Caldwell, at some Indian fishermen 
who were hostile to the giants; that the fishermen were crushed 
beneath the rocks, and that a certain species of fish were so 
frightened by the fall of the rocks, or boulders, that they left 
the waters of the Passaic, and never returned thereafter. 
Whether the legend be true, or not, we have no means of 
determining; yet, it does seem strange that a species of fish, 
different from any that now inhabit the waters of the Passaic, 
should have been found in fossils, at points so far distant as 
Boonton and Pompton; or that a portion of rock, identical 



DESCRIPTIVE SKETCH. 

with the three at Two Bridges, should still lie on top of the 
mountain at North Caldwell, five miles distant. These, and 
other evidences of a j^re-historic age, gave rise, no doubt, to 
the legend, w hich is here given episodicall^^ 

The valle\' of the Passaic, whether taken in its entirety, or 
taken at random from almost any point, is fair to look upon; 
and many of the views are grand beyond description. Those 
from points near Millington, Stanley, Chatham, Livingston, 
Hanover, Swineficld and Pine Brook, near the mouth of the 
Rockaway River, are only equaled by the more extended 
views from Fairmount Avenue at Stanley, Riker Hill at Rose- 
land, the school-house common at Caldwell, the Stony Pinnacle 
on Hook Mountain at Horse-neck, and the crest of Second 
Mountain at North Caldwell. The view from the highest 
point in Laurel (jroxc Cemetery, near Paterson, either looking 
up or down the valley, is worth a journey to see; and the same 
may be said of the views from East Side Park at Paterson. 
Garret Mountain and the Preakness Hills afford views ever 
pleasing to the eye, while the whole distance from the city of 
Newark to that of Paterson, is one grand panorama of enchant- 
ing landscapes, rarely equaled; and the writer has yet to see 
a river or valley affording views that surpass them. Many 
other fine views besides those above mentioned, lie along 
the banks of the Passaic; and the views contained within the 
limited pages of this book, give only glances here and there 
of New Jersey's famous river. ]\Lany small, yet beautiful tree- 
girt islands lie within the rims of its flowing tides, and offer 
restful retreat to any who may seek their cooling shades. 

The Valley of the Rocks at Little P"alls, as well as the Falls 
of the Passaic, at Paterson, arc full of interest, and afford great 
pleasure to all who \isit either of them. Aside from the 
rugged beauty of this scener\-, the student of geology will find 
abundant study in the columnar trap-rock at Little Falls, or 
the basaltic rock at the Falls, at Paterson. And, while it 
is disappointing to many, and to be regretted by all, that 
during the dryer season of the >ear most, if not all, of the 



DESCRIPTIVE SKETCH. 

water is diverted from the river to the race-way of the Society 
for Establishing Useful Manufactures, yet the grandeur of the 
open Chasm cannot fail but to impress, even with its barren- 
ness of waters, the wondrous works of Nature's hand. And, 
while it is admitted that the blasting of the rocks at Little 
Falls, in connection with the operations now in progress for 
the drainage of the Upper Meadows, has marred to some ex- 
tent the natural beauty of this waterfall, yet the weird sur- 
roundings of that charming spot are such that it will defy the 
" march of progress" to blot out its many and irresistible fasci- 
nations. While the windings of the flowing river, whether in 
the upper, the middle or the lower valley, lose none of their 
charm, but rather the charm increases the more one looks upon 
it; and though age may creep upon everything around us, yet in 
the flowing river there is a never-ending life; and its waters 
run on to-day the same as when our eyes first looked upon 
them years and years ago. Every murmur is just as full of 
rythm ; every ripple is just as bright, and sparkles with the same 
brilliancy of beam; the moonbeams dance the same mystic 
revels upon it; while the sunbeams fall with the same warmth, 
and paint the same bright pictures. The autumn leaves fall on 
its placid waters, and ride out to sea like little fairy ships, and 
with each recurring season, the leaves will fall withersoever 
the winds list, and ride on the bosom of the same river out to 
the same sea. Tree-girt banks will cast their shadows just 
the same, and the reflections will differ only as the trees shall 
have grown larger, or given way to those of smaller growth. 
And while the writer is free to admit that he has written wholly 
from a sense of admiration for the river, and has striven to de- 
scribe its many interesting features rather than give expression 
to flights of fancy, yet he indulges in the hope that under the 
guidance of poetic inspiration, some abler pen than his — 

Will sing in rythmic line, 
And all its way define. 
And, in our hearts enshrine 
The beauties of that river. 

Paterson, N. J., 9th Mo., 1890. 



